How to rebuild a TD05 turbo

Today we’re going to run you through rebuilding a TD05 turbo to bring your old worn out blower back to life. Don’t worry if you haven’t got a TD05 though, the process is very similar to other turbos.

The following is a guest post from nigebc of the Proton Owners Club. Nige’s oil seats went on his TD05 not long after his turbo install was complete, instead of sending it off for refurb, he decided to buy a rebuild kit and have a go himself, good man. The TD05 rebuild kit is similar to these eBay listings.

Standard disclaimer: Neither Nige nor Japtalk take any responsibility if you give this a go and things go wrong. It is recommended that turbos are balanced following a rebuild. If things break, don’t blame us!

Now that’s over, let’s get on with it…

The first photo shows oil seepage and why I carried out the rebuild.

So, the first step is to drop the turbo off the car. Would love to have done a guide for this, but thinking to myself, if you cant do that bit, there’s no point in you trying to attempt this.

Here is what it should look like:

First step once the turbo is off is to get a 12mm socket and remove the wastegate actuator.

Then use a 10mm socket and remove the v-clamp band.

The next stage is a case of separating the exhaust housing from the compressor housing. You will normally need the use of a hammer. Ideally a dead blow hammer or a piece of wood and normal hammer. You need to be extremely careful to support the housings once hit with a hammer. Hold the compressor housing and hit straight down on the turbine exhaust housing. Try and get this housing to come off as straight as possible so not to damage the wheel blades.

There is a small locating pin that usually stays in the exhaust housing. This is used for helping with the reassembly and lining things back up. Unfortunately on mine it was snapped, part was in the exhaust housing and part in the compressor housing. This isnt a major downfall, it just means I had to scribe a line on the outside edge of the mating surfaces so i could realign it properly when putting it back together

Scribing the outside mating surface.

So were now at this stage.

Notice how my exhaust turbine wheel and heat shield is wet. This is a prime example of oil seepage / leakage from the turbine shaft seal.

The next part I couldnt do on my own, I had to take it to a mechanic I know to do. What needs to be done is a circlip needs undoing. This holds the compressor housing to the center housing. I had some small circlip pliers, but they werent strong enough. This is a beast of a circlip and has immense strength.

Once that is undone and removed, its time to separate the compressor housing from the center housing.
Again, be very careful. Unfortunately I failed at this and when I removed the compressor housing from the center housing, it didnt come off at a straight angle and put a nice crack in one of the compressor wheel blades. Pictures of that later. At that point, I think I spat my dummy out and thought sod it, hate cars now, selling up blah blah.

Here is another marking point, just to make you aware for when putting all back together.

Here is the center housing removed.

I hadn’t removed the water lines and oil feed previously as I didn’t want to if it wasnt necessary, but they just kept getting in the way, so I did.

So next is the pretty serious stuff. The way i see it, you can’t make too many scribes/marks to be able to line things back up exactly as the way they were.

Take note as to which type of thread is on the compressor shaft left or right hand thread.

I must say, before attempting this, I did numerous research into whether it was possible to do a rebuild without getting it balanced and for me, I found sufficient evidence to warrant me trying it without getting it balanced after providing sufficient scribes and marks where made. I found statements that said TD05H turbos are component-balanced from the factory, meaning the turbine shaft and compressor wheel are balanced individually and their alignment is not crucial for proper balance. But I still played safe and marked everything up.

This picture shows the shaft, nut and wheel of the compressor side all marked up.

Unfortunately as it’s been a while, I cant remember what size socket/spanner was needed. Think the compressor nut was imperial perhaps 3/8″.

Anyway, the next step is to crack off the nut on the compressor side. It may be useful to stick the center housing into a vice so you have a bit of grip, then socket/spanner both ends. It’s only the compressor nut that comes off. NOT THE TURBINE WHEEL NUT. Be careful with the amount of force you use as the last thing you want to do is bend the shaft.

Once you have undone the compressor nut, the wheel should slide off the shaft easily.

Once the compressor wheel is removed, the turbine shaft can be easily pushed out the opposite direction. If for some reason its tough to get out, just put the compressor nut back on flush with the shaft and tap lightly with a hammer.

When my turbine wheel and shaft came out, the journal bearing was still on the shaft. It may happen with you, if not, it will just still be in the center housing.

The heat shield can come off from the turbine/exhaust housing now.

You can see how dirty/coked up it is and the oily mess on it form the leaky shaft seal.

I just placed it on the turbine shaft so I knew which order things came off in.

Then, look at the compressor side. There is another circlip to undo. Easier than the first one!

You can now try and remove the oil shield center cap. Using a screwdriver under the lip, just work your way around and it will come out.

Which leaves this as the state of play.

There is now an o-ring that needs removing before the thrust plate can be removed.

Gently lift the thrust plate up with a screwdriver to remove.

Thrust plate removed.

Take note of which way up the thrust plate goes and also the holes underneath it in relation to the thrust plate. It is important this goes back in the right way.

So the next step is to remove the steel bushing/thrust plate collar from under the thrust plate you just removed. Its amazing how worn this part of mine was. Pics later.

Then that leaves the compressor side journal bearing to be removed.

Then, remove the compressor housing o-ring.

There is a little further you can go by removing a couple of smaller circlips, within the center housing, but I found them hard to remove and to be honest, I just didnt see the point in replacing them.

In some rebuild kits, a heat shield is supplied. In mine, it wasnt. I wish it was as I do believe I may have benefited from a new one as I think the old one was worn.

Next stage is to remove the old turbine sealing ring from the groove on the shaft (slide old journal bearing off).

Its now time for some of the boring stuff… cleaning!

Clean out the groove where you have just removed the the seal ring from. There was lots of dirty coked material in and around mine. It needs to be spotless for when the new one goes back in.

Engine degreaser/brake parts cleaner works well.

Also, I cleaned the turbine wheel.

Then came to cleaning the heat shield, from this.

To this.

Be sure to clean as well as you can, especially where the turbine sealing ring sits when its in position. Its crucial this seats and seals properly.

For the reassembly process, some engine assembly lube is required.

Once the clean up is done, its time to put the new turbine seal ring on the shaft. It will have opened up slightly (made bigger) but this should compress when its put into position in the center housing. Its possible just to nip up slightly with a pair of needle nose pliers just to make it a bit easier to get into position, but dont close up so small or you may defeat the object of the ring.

Then slide the new journal bearing on the shaft with lubrication to prevent damage on start up.

Install the heat shield, then slide the shaft and wheel (with bearing on) down into position. Gently push downwards until you hear a click. That means the seal has now been seated into position in the center housing.

Thats the turbine exhaust side sorted.

Then re-install the big new o-ring for the compressor housing side.

Then, working on the compressor side, install the new brass journal bearing (lubricating as you go) over the shaft and then the new steel bushing.

Then place the brass thrust plate over the steel bushing / thrust collar (making sure the plate is the correct way round).

Then fit the new oil shield o-ring into the housing.

Some of the next photos are a bit out of focus, but you’ll just have to put up with that.

Its now a stage of replacing some of the old parts with new from the kit.

To be installed.

Push the new compressor seal collar through the thin oil deflector plate.

Then turn it over and fit the new compressor seal into the compressor seal collar.

Next step is to push the compressor seal collar through the new oil shield. Be careful not to damage the seal ring.

What it now looks like turned over.

Remember to lubricate as you go.

Then slide this over the turbine shaft and seat it into place. The lube will help it go over the o-ring.

Once that is in place, its time to install the new circlip with the bevelled edge facing up.

Now it is time to put the compressor wheel back on and tighten up the nut.

If you scribed/marked the shaft/nut and wheel, then now is time to start lining them back up.

I used a blue loctite on the thread to help stop it coming undone.

Torque wise, research suggest between 70 – 100 inch lbs depending on sources

Try and get the nut as close to lined up as you can. Part of my nut had been ground away (balancing purposes) so for it to then be at the opposite side of what it used to be could send it out of balance. SO worth trying to get lined up.

I didnt use a torque wrench to tighten, so those figures are just what I saw. Personally I dont want the risk of that nut coming undone so I did it to what I thought. Obviously not going over the top enough to bend the shaft or anything.

Place the center section into the compressor housing and making sure you get your marks lined up. eg. The circular notch. Do your best to not let the wheel hit the housing. I know the picture below doesnt fully show it lined up as the circlip is back on and in the way, but it was just a reminder really.

With that notch lined up, its time to put that big massive circlip back on. This proved pretty much every bit of a bugger to get on as it did to get off. Once again, install it beveled side facing up.

The center section and compressor housing can now be put back into the exhaust turbine housing. Making sure to line up the locating pin. It’s important for this to be lined up so that the oil lines and coolant lines can fit and function properly.

Then put the v-clamp back on and bolt up.

Wastegate on.. and you’re all done!

Then fingers crossed it works. I was tense for a long while.

Set my car up as a N/A just running the turbo inline and took photos and videos of the turbo spinning making sure it wasnt grinding or catching anywhere.

New parts vs old parts.

New on left, old on right. The part with the black arrow between them is the same part. See the difference in size. The old one was so worn, I believe this is due to shaft play. Wouldn’t swear to it but I think that’s what I read.

Another pic of the difference.

This was the tear I put in the compressor wheel blade by the housing not coming off straight.

To prevent this actually coming off during operation I took it off

I was concerned this could send things out of balance. I tried getting a new wheel, but when it came it was totally different and when i weighed it, it weighed about 20 grams less. So this could have well sent things out of balance, so I didnt bother replacing it. I did a bit of a bodge repair to try and get what weight could have been lost from the metal back on behind that blade. So I don’t technically know if this would have sent it out of balance without doing that or whether it just wasnt necessary. So this is why I mentioned there is possibly a margin of error allowed.

Saying that, another reason is, at some point in time, something I think has gone through the turbo due to the state of the blades on the turbine wheel, there is all little chips out of most of them.

And that’s all there is too it. Take your time and study this guide before attempting something like this yourself. And like most things, if you don’t feel you’re up to the job, get a professional in!

A big thanks to Nige for writing such an excellent guide.

Let us know how you got in on the comments below.

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